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New at Oak: Spitfire Sunglasses
Oak’s Spitfire Sunglasses are unisex, which means that you’ll have to make sure that these don’t get snagged by a significant other. These black frame glasses from Oak feature gold clip-on shades for a unique look. They will look great with rough tweeds, vintage suits, and wool overcoats. [$46 at oak]
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How to tell if your shirt fits correctly
Youd think this would be fairly easy, wouldnt you? Put on shirt. See if shirt feels comfortable. If it does, buy it. But most mens shirts, particularly in the US, are made larger than a man needs. Because everyone notices when he tries on something thats too tight. Far fewer notice if its too big.
Lets start with the sleeves. While there is an element of personal taste involved in the length of a jackets sleeves, the rule for a shirts sleeves is pretty universal. The end of the cuff should finish at the base of your thumb (when your arms are by your side). It should grip your wrist fairly tightly, so that there can be some excess in the length of the sleeve, but it does not fall down to envelope your hand. This excess in the length means that when you stretch your arm out, the cuff remains on your wrist and is not tugged back.
Next the collar. Again, most men wear collars that are too big. Because no one minds a little breathing room; but everyone hates being strangled. There is certainly some room for personal taste, but dont stray too far from the rule: when it is fastened you should be able to easily slip two fingers between the collar and your neck. Three is ok. Four or five means it is too big. Your tie will droop, your shirt will look apologetic and youll look like youre wearing your big brothers clothes.
The fit of a shirts body is much more subjective. Some people prioritise comfort above a sharp silhouette. Just as many go too far the other way. But lets start with a certainty: the longer the tail of your shirt, the better it will fit. Because regardless of how big the shirt is around your waist, it will be baggier if the tail is short. A long tail creates greater friction between shirt and trousers, and curves around your legs, making it far harder to pull out. So the shirt bags less and looks better. The only problem is if you like wearing the shirt untucked as well. Then you have to compromise.
On the body of the shirt, there are three measurements the manufacturer will have considered: chest, waist and hips. Your natural waist is around your belly button. Your hips are probably where your trousers start. Hips may seem the least important of the three, but the width here makes almost as much difference to bagginess as the length of the tail. Keep it narrow if you can. As to waist, make sure it looks good to your eye but has room to stretch when you sit down (everyones waist expands then, no matter how slim). And with the chest, reach around behind you and make sure the buttons dont popoh, and you want as high an armhole as possible as it will allow greater manoeuvrability.
Those are the main points to watch when you try on a new shirt, stare into the mirror and look yourself up and down. Youll never find one that ticks them all unless you have it made to measure. But you will find one thats close if you bear these points in mind and invest some time tramping between stores. And once youve found a brand that fits well, stick to it.
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Parrott Worker’s Canvas Tote Bag
The Parrott Worker’s Canvas Tote Bag is a fantastic canvas addition to your spring wardrobe– this will last a long time, even if it is in cream. This heavyweight cotton canvas bag features a traditional navy blue bottom panel and is manufactured in North Carolina. Locals are said to still purchase their Parrott pieces from the 20-year-old company straight from the factory. [via limited hype]
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Tanner Goods Satchel in “Landscape” Design
This is one hot satchel, brought to us from Portland-based Tanner Goods. The natural strap leather bag will fit a MacBook Pro (15″) perfectly; a special detachable insert can hold goodies like pens and a mouse. This angular bag features nickel-plated aluminum hardware and a great patina. [via limitedhype]
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Reader question: What length should suit trousers be?
James isnt sure about his trousers: I had some suit trousers taken up recently by a tailor and he insisted that I wanted them so they barely reached my shoes. I insisted on having them a bit lower, but they still feel short. They seem to flap around when I walk. Was the tailor right and what length should suit trousers be?
I have to say, James, Im surprised at that length of trouser being a tailors default. Unless he is an old-school Italian or a modern hipster, I would have expected him to naturally cut the trousers with a break. But perhaps he just thought he was trying to keep up with the trends.
The standard and largely traditional length for suit trousers is that they fall on your shoes such that there is no break in the crease at the back of your legit is a straight, uninterrupted line from hip to heeland in the front there is a single break (fold). This is roughly the same length as the trousers will be if you stand in your socks and the back crease just touches the floor. (This latter measurement being useful if a friend or partner is taking up the trousers for youeasier for them to judge and to pin.)
The traditional length means that your legs appear long and sleek, with no break in that elegant line at the back and minimal interruption at the front. It also means others are unlikely to see much of your socks as you walk along.
However, the trend in recent years has been for shorter trousers (as illustrated above). While designers like Thom Browne have taken it to extreme lengths, most brands and tailors have tended towards the shortsomething reflected in the trend for men to turn-up the bottom of their narrow jeans as well.
But as I mentioned earlier, short trousers are not just a recent phenomenon. A particular strain of southern European men, particularly in Milan, has always worn its suit trousers short. This is largely a matter of ostentation. As one Italian friend told me a while ago: I dont necessarily want people to see my socks, but I damn sure want them to see my shoes. The trousers are worn short to give adequate exposure to Italians more colourful, more often slimmer shoes. When shades of brown are the more common choice for business, rather than black, you can understand that.
Usually these men will wear their trousers so they just touch the top of their shoesno break in the front as well as the back. They avoid excess flapping by having the trousers cut narrowly and with turn-ups, which means they hug the calves and are weighed down by the extra material.
If you want to echo this tradition of shorter trousers, I recommend going for turn-ups (cuffs). It helps that they too are more fashionable that they used to be. And of course it is easy to reverse that decision later.
However, if you want something more conservative and less likely to be noticed, go for a single break in the front. Perhaps a shallow break, just to give your shoes a little breathing room.
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3sixteen x Quoddy Leather Deck Chukka
Classic chukkas have us craving more. These 3sixteens come from a collaboration with Quoddy of Maine and are photographed by Hypebeast. A deep navy is a welcome spring look, especially when paired with fresh white accents. Bows & Arrows in Berkley (510-649-6683) has received a limited quantity of these handcrafted shoes. [via hypebeast]
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Kanye West for A Bathing Ape
Kanye West’s campaign with A Bathing Ape for Spring 2010 was quite successful, and featured some great lightweight spring jackets with varied inspiration. Japanese and American design interests work their way into this collection in the way of premium denim, baseball jackets, military-inspired pieces, and layered hoodies + jackets. Kanye does them proud, but it might take a second to get over the initial shock of seeing Kanye front and center. [via hypebeast]
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Porter Smoky Backpack Tote
This Porter tote looks like something a DJ would love and carry, but it’s actually a great all-purpose bag for daily-duty use. This backpack/tote has adjustable cinches on the sides, a side zip, and two outer and two outer pockets. A special organic cotton and nylon blend fabric has been made to withstand daily abuse. [via limited hype]
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Have a Cup of Cheer: 5 Classic Holiday Drink Recipes
[ WebEcoist ]
Christmas is upon us once again, and that means lots of food, a few presents, and, usually, a few soul-warming drinks. Whether you’re planning to host a big Christmas party or are looking forward to spending a quiet holiday at home, these holiday drink recipes will keep you warm and add a cup of cheer to your celebrations.
Eggnog
This classic holiday drink will have you and your guests going back for more time after time. Most eggnog is full of saturated fat and sugar, and if it’s made with raw eggs it can be dangerous. Make it with organic, rBGH-free milk and pasteurized egg substitute for a much safer, healthier version. If you’re looking to cut down on calories, try this healthier version that uses vanilla frozen yogurt instead of heavy cream to make the drink nice and creamy. Or make this delicious vegan “egg” nog to eliminate the dairy and eggs altogether. Keep it alcohol-free for the kids, but add a bit of organic rum for the adults.
Mulled Cider
Is there anything more comforting on a cold winter day than hot mulled cider? This drink is well-known in New England, but is served all around the world. It’s simple to prepare and makes your house smell fantastic – and having a glass or three will make it much easier to maintain your holiday cheer. If you prefer, buy pre-mixed mulling spices (available around the holidays in most grocery stores) instead of assembling the individual spices yourself. This recipe will yield 8 cups of cider.
Ingredients
1/2 gallon of fresh, unfiltered organic apple cider
1 washed organic orange
15 cloves
4 3-inch sticks of cinnamon
15 allspice berries
1 teaspoon of nutmeg
7 pods of cardamon
1/4 cup brown sugar
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